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Met huizen als Bérêche, Selosse, Agrapart, Chartogne-Taillet, Dhondt-Grellet en Savart hadden wij een, al zeggen we het zelf, jaloersmakend portfolio aan Champagnes. We hadden echter nog een huis boven aan onze verlanglijst staan en dat was Suenen [fon. Su-en-en]. Tot onze grote vreugde is het gelukt ook dit huis in ons assortiment opgenomen te krijgen. Dat was zeker geen sinecure. De wijnen van Aurélien Suenen zijn zeer gezocht en daarbij helpt het niet dat hij niet veel meer dan 20.000 flessen per jaar maakt. Suenen gevestigd in het hart van de Côtes de Blancs, in het volgens velen mooiste Champagnedorp Cramant, produceert Champagnes die eerder wat lichtvoetiger en mineraliger zijn. Je zou het meer Agrapart-stijl kunnen noemen. Dat lichtvoetige neemt niet weg dat zijn Champagnes een verbluffende complexiteit en diepte bezitten.

  1. Champagne Blanc de Blancs Oiry Grand Cru Extra Brut I Suenen

    John Gilman: “The Oiry grand cru bottling from Monsieur Suenen is from the base year of 2014 [NB wij verkopen de cuvées met als basis 2015] . Like all of the wines in his cellars from 2014 forwards, the vins clairs here were fermented with indigenous yeasts. The Oiry bottling was finished with a dosage of two grams per liter and disgorged in September of 2017. The wine is lovely and a quite elegant on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet offering up scents of pear, apple, fresh-baked bread, chalky soil tones, white flowers and plenty of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, quite open and soil-driven in personality, with a good core, fine focus and grip, elegant mousse and a long, complex and vibrant finish. This is more forward than Aurélien’s “C + C” bottling and is already a delight to drink today. Lees verder
    € 46,50
  2. Champagne Blanc de Blanc C+C Grand Cru Extra Brut I Suenen

    John Gilman: “This grand cru blend from Aurélien Suenen has been given the cuvée name of “C + C”, as it is a blend of fruit from the two villages of Cramant and Chouilly, and the authorities do not allow the names of two different grand cru villages to appear on the same label. There was an inaugural release of this wine from the 2013 vintage, which I tasted in the cellars here in itsformative stages back in the spring of 2015, but somehow missed it in bottle when it was released last year. This new iteration is from the base year of 2014 [NB wij verkopen de cuvées met als basis 2015] and was finished off with a dosage of three grams per liter and was disgorged in September of 2017. The wine is excellent, offering up a youthful and very promising bouquet of apple, pear, complex, limestone minerality, incipient notes of crème patissière, gentle smokiness and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very minerally in personality today, with a rock solid core, fine focus and grip, very elegant mousse and a very long, primary and vibrant finish. This is still a puppy and should be tucked away in the cellar for at least another four years, to allow it to really blossom fully. It will be outstanding with a bit of patience. Lees verder
    € 55,00